A historic and culturally rich provincial capital with a tastefully restored historic centre; its Gothic cathedral is surrounded by narrow pedestrian streets flanked by traditional and modern bars, and shops that range from idiosyncratic and family owned, to urban-chic and contemporary.
There is a varied skyline of church spires, red tiled roofs and lofty apartment buildings. The 11th-century Gibralfaro castle sits above all and provides the best view of all.
The port has been grandly rebuilt and is now a great place to stroll, meet up for a drink, eat or just watch the boats.